Is this the Golden Age of St. Louis barbecue?
Some musings based on the news that Mike Mills of 17th Street Bar & Grill was this year’s recipient of the “Pioneer of Barbecue” award at the Jack Daniel’s World Invitational Barbecue Cooking Contest: I could make an argument that we’re in a very special time for barbecue in St. Louis.
There’s Mills, who’s based in Murphysboro, Ill., down by Carbondale, but who has a large outpost in O’Fallon, Ill. Charlotte’s Rib just became one of the first, if not the first, local competitor in the Jack Daniel’s competition. Last year marked the opening of Pappy’s in Midtown, and the downsized Super Smokers seems to have been successfully resurrected at its original Eureka location.
None of these purveyors make what I’d consider “classic St. Louis” barbecue, that style being best illustrated by Phil’s in Affton, among others. Lots of the barbecue I’ve experienced locally is in this basting (and even steeping) style, and much like St. Louis pizza, it has its positive qualities, but there are much better ways to barbecue.
Mmmmm. Pork steak!
Anyway, congratulations to the award-winners and to the barbecue joints who have raised the bar locally. What do you think about these four? Do you prefer their style, or do you have one or more other local shacks that you think set an even higher standard?
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Joe Bonwich has been the restaurant critic for the Post-Dispatch since 2002 and has covered the local food scene for various publications for more than 25 years. He does his best to maintain his anonymity so that he isn't recognized in restaurants (which is why his picture looks like it does). 
We certainly hope it’s the Golden Age of St. Louis barbecue and we’re thrilled to be part of the scene… a rising tide lifts all ships!
Pappy’s is my favorite for sure. I prefer dry rub and add sauce if I want and Pappy’s is soooooooo good, you really don’t need sauce at all but it is a great little dipper on the side. Their sweet potato fries and baked beans are my favorite sides to get - in fact I’m craving it just typing, so a trip is in my near future for sure!
Pappy’s sets a high standard with their pulled pork and sweet potato fries. I like the look of the place, too - reminds me of places I’ve eaten in Memphis. Their web site is a hoot! Love that theme song. Pappy’s is worth the drive to midtown, for sure.
Dry rub is disgusting. Penny’s is my favorite local place, but I’d rather you not go there. It’s crowded enough.
Great BBQ is a beautiful thing, so nice that several good places have cropped up. Pappys pulled pork and amazingly turkey are wonderful (who’d a thunk turkey would actually be an acceptable alternative with pig on the menu?!!). 17th street has great ribs and pulled pig, ditto super smokers in Eureka….
Joe, I’m looking at that pork steak wondering how many you could get out of a 300# pig shoulder…..that would be comparable to the sirloins my dad used to grill in the 1960’s.
Amy, obviously you have never had GOOD dry rub BBQ. I you did, you’d almost never want sauce on a rack of ribs because the meat has the right flavor from the salts/spices and smoke from a hardwood or fruit tree chips.
Pappy’s can’t be stopped! My mouth is watering right now.
I CRAVE Pappy’s ribs on a regular basis. Is this normal? YES.