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12.04.2008 2:47 pm

A walk through the new Straub’s in Ellisville

P-D Restaurant Critic and Food Writer
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Spent an hour last evening exploring the new MegaStraub’s at Clayton and Clarkson Road in Ellisville. At 40,000 square feet, it’s three times as big as any other Straub’s, and that’s certainly the first thing I noticed — ceilings are high, aisles are wide and there’s none of the claustrophobia of the other Straub’s.

Aromas were everywhere, but especially in the back middle, where the arm of a large coffee roaster slowly rotated and sent coffee scents rising. The long meat display cases showed off Straub’s signature prime steaks — and you could really get an idea of the marbling on the specialty Kobe beef that’s also unique to Straub’s. (I’m not sure how many people buy Kobe strip steaks at $55 a pound, but they’re sure gorgeous.)

Over among the smoked meats were stuff like smoked duck and smoked pheasant, and the cold cut counter had both San Daniele prosciutto and speck, among many other things.

There’s also a sizeable cookbook and kitchenware display, and a guy in chef’s whites was working it yesterday.

As noted in this recent article by my colleague Gail Appleson, Straub’s hopes to do lots of sit-down and carryout food business from the new store. As such, there’s a $7.99/pound hot food bar as well as a cafe. There’s also a second-floor sit-down space complete with fireplace, although this was set up with tables for a raffle yesterday afternoon.

Cooking classes are held in a glassed-in room on that mezzanine level.

Photos by Katherine Bish

Photos by Katherine Bish

In short, the place is gorgeous, and it provides a much better merchandising platform for showing off the extensive upscale and luxury food inventory that Straub’s has always been famous for. (Did I mention there’s a sizeable beer, wine and liquor selection?) The multimillion-dollar question, of course, is how demand for that style of inventory will hold up during the current economic conditions. I also wonder how the new place will affect traffic at the much smaller existing Straub’s a few miles west on Clayton Road.

For me last night, however, going the new Straub’s was like my first visit to Six Flags as a teenager. There was a new thrill around every corner.

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4 comments

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I went and checked it out too. Its a really beautiful store. I was impressed with the large selection within each department. I had no idea there were so many different kinds of ice cream toppings available. And if you are looking for a hard to find baking ingredient or spice you will likely find it here. It had a sophistocated, warm atmosphere where other grocery stores are as boring as boxed goods on metal shelves. I could have looked around for hours.

— Mimi
12:49 pm December 5th, 2008

I worked at the Straub’s at Clayton and Mason when I was in college, and I still love to stop by whenever I’m in the area, usually to get a chicken salad sandwich (still easily the best I’ve ever had) and some fresh-squeezed orange juice. I’m sure the new store is incredible and will do will in Ellisville. I’ll definitely have to stop in there next time I’m out that way.

— Mike
2:28 pm December 5th, 2008

I haven’t seen it since it has been open, but I visited it (professionally) while it was under construction. I honestly cannot differentiate it from the Whole Foods store that recently opened a couple miles east of it on Clayton Road. It is, however, a bold and impressive step for a local grocer. Expect Schnucks and/or Dierbergs to soon follow suit.

— archie
3:19 am December 6th, 2008

Nice store! Get the basics at Aldis and the fancy stuff at Straubs.

— Aston Villian
7:31 am December 21st, 2008