I used to be awed by Public Radio host Lynne Rossetto Kasper’s encyclopedic knowledge. No matter what question a caller to “The Splendid Table” asks, no matter the cuisine, she has the answer.
Then I heard Kasper speak in person and learned that the calls come in throughout the week. When her show airs, she calls the questioners back — already knowing what they will ask (and how she will reply).
I’m awed no more, but I’m still impressed. Kasper has the skills and the tools to make almost any recipe sound possible and almost any food sound tempting.
She’s compiled lots of those factoids in a brand-new book, “The Splendid Table’s How To Eat Supper” (written with show co-creator and producer Sally Swift; Clarkson Potter, $35, 338 pages). It’s crammed with reasonably simple recipes and stories and gorgeously illustrated with full-page color photos. Unfortunately, it’s flawed by its chaotic design, with way too many type sizes and styles on each page. Even worse, following many of the recipes requires turning a page to move between the ingredient list and the instructions. And some of the “tidbit” pages are tomato-red with black type and some white type, making them particularly difficult to read.
Nonetheless, I’m not letting the design issues keep me from the content. I’m finding interesting bits and pieces and appealing recipes, including this one that just screams “spring.”
SPRING GRILL OF ASPARAGUS AND SCALLION SALAD
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
1 medium shallot, minced
1/2 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1/2 tablespoon red wine vinegar or cider vinegar
Table salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons coarse dark mustard
5 tablespoons heavy whipping cream
1 pound pencil-slim asparagus, trimmed of tough ends
3 bunches (about 30) scallions (green onions), trimmed off roots and 1 inch of their green tops
1 to 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt
2 teaspoons minced fresh chives or scallion tops, for garnish
If using an electric oven, set oven rack about 5 inches from broiler. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
To make the dressing, blend shallot and vinegars with table salt and pepper to taste in a medium bowl. Mix in mustard and cream. Taste for seasoning; set aside.
Cover a large baking sheet with foil. Spread asparagus and scallions over sheet, making sure they do not touch. Sprinkle with oil and a little coarse salt and pepper. Roll vegetables gently to coat them with seasonings.
Roast for 6 to 8 minutes or until asparagus is barely tender when pierced with a knife. (You should hear them sizzling.) Turn on the broiler. If using a gas oven, move baking sheet to a position 5 inches under the broiler. Broil vegetables about 2 minutes, until scallions have some browned leaves and asparagus begins to color. (If some of the pieces brown faster, you can remove them to a serving platter.)
Pile vegetables on a platter; zigzag the dressing over them. Sprinkle with chives and serve.
