Just about every longtime St. Louisan remembers the golden age of cafeterias. Miss Hulling’s, Pope’s, the Forum — these places fed the masses, and fed them well.

While the memories live on, not all of the recipes survived. One that did, however, is the nut torte served at Pope’s. This copy is courtesy of Jill Allen, granddaughter of Mildred Hoppe, who worked for the Pope family for many years. The recipe is from a 1979 cookbook published by Pope’s.

(For another recipe, a copycat of the date-nut tortes sold at cafeterias in their heyday, click here.)

POPE’S NUT TORTE

Yield: 8 servings

2 tablespoons vinegar

1 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup (about 5 large) egg whites, at room temperature

1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar

1/2 cup packed brown sugar

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 teaspoon almond extract

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons graham cracker crumbs

1/2 cup chopped pecans

1 large banana

2 cups whipped topping or 1 cup heavy cream whipped with 2 tablespoons powdered sugar

Maraschino cherries, for garnish

Toasted almonds or pecan pieces, for garnish

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Grease an 8-by-2-inch round pan.

Combine vinegar and salt; use to rinse large bowl of electric mixer to dissolve any trace of grease. Rinse well with water and dry.

Place egg whites and cream of tartar in bowl. Beat on high speed until egg whites form soft peaks. Use a wire balloon-type beater if you have one.

Sift together brown sugar and granulated sugar. With a hand sifter, gradually sprinkle sugar over egg whites, adding about a tablespoon at a time and beating at high speed for at least a minute after each addition.

When all the sugar has been added, continue to beat for at least 5 minutes or until egg whites are glossy and stand in stiff peaks. Tip the bowl; if whites start to slide, you haven’t beaten them enough. Add vanilla and almond extract; mix thoroughly. Remove bowl from mixer.

Combine graham cracker crumbs and pecans; mix thoroughly. Sprinkle a third over the egg whites and fold in gently. Gradually add remaining crumb mix, folding in gently after each addition. Pour into prepared pan and place in oven. Immediately reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees; bake for 35 minutes or until top of torte is firm to the touch but still light in color.

Remove from oven; let cool in pan. Remove from pan and place on serving platter. Slice banana; place slices on torte. Decorate top and sides of torte with whipped topping; sprinkle with cherries and almonds. Refrigerate until ready to serve (if decorated with whipped cream, cake will not store very long).