Eggplant is often compared to a sponge because it can soak up vast amounts of oil as it cooks. This recipe from Cook’s Illustrated avoids that problem with a clever technique: salting the eggplant and precooking it in the microwave before adding it to the skillet.

Here’s how it works, according to an article in the August issue: “The salt pulls out liquid from inside the eggplant at the same time the microwave causes it to steam. In addition, the microwave helps to compress the eggplant, making it less spongy.” After their stint in the microwave, the cubes of eggplant won’t look pretty, but they’ll plump right up as they soak up the caponata’s flavorful sauce.

Serve the finished recipe warm or at room temperature. It’s delicious as a topping for grilled baguettes or dolloped over grilled meat, chicken or fish. Caponata also makes a nice side dish.

Sicilian Eggplant Relish (Caponata)
Yield: 3 cups

1 large eggplant (about 1 1/2 pounds), cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 7 cups)
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 cup vegetable juice, preferably V8
1/4 cup red wine vinegar, plus extra for seasoning
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons minced anchovy fillets (2 to 3 fillets)
8 ounces ripe tomatoes (2 medium), cored, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 1 cup)
1/4 cup raisins
2 tablespoons minced black olives
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 celery rib, cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 1/2 cup)
1 small red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 1/2 cup)
1 small onion, diced fine (about 1/2 cup)
1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted

Toss eggplant and salt together in medium bowl. Line entire surface of large microwave-safe plate with double layer of coffee filters or food-safe, undyed paper towels and lightly spray with nonstick cooking spray. Spread eggplant in even layer over coffee filters. Microwave on high power until eggplant is dry and shriveled to one-third of its size, 8 to 15 minutes (eggplant should not brown). (If microwave has no turntable, rotate plate after 5 minutes.) Remove eggplant from microwave and immediately transfer to paper towel-lined plate.

Meanwhile, whisk vegetable juice, vinegar, brown sugar, parsley, and anchovies together in medium bowl. Stir in tomatoes, raisins, and olives.
Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add eggplant and cook, stirring occasionally, until edges are browned, 4 to 8 minutes, adding 1 teaspoon oil if pan appears dry. Transfer eggplant to bowl and set aside.
Add remaining 2 or 3 teaspoons oil to now-empty skillet and heat until shimmering. Add celery and red pepper; cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and edges are spotty brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Add onion and continue to cook until vegetables are browned, about 4 minutes longer.

Reduce heat to medium-low; stir in eggplant and vegetable juice mixture. Bring to simmer and cook until vegetable juice is thickened and coats vegetables, 4 to 7 minutes. Transfer to serving bowl and cool to room temperature. Taste and season with up to 1 teaspoon additional vinegar. Sprinkle with pine nuts before serving.

Note: Caponata is best made in advance. It can be refrigerated for up to 1 week in an airtight container.