Here’s a fun and unusual way to serve corned beef and cabbage. The flavor says Ireland, but these appetizer-size nibbles look like Japanese maki rolls. To further the illusion, serve the accompanying sauce in an Asian soup spoon.

The recipe is from Andrew Dorenburg, whose newest book is “The Flavor Bible: The Essential Guide to Culinary Creativity, Based on the Wisdom of America’s Most Imaginative Chefs” (Little, Brown; Fall 2008; $35). “Irish food has the image of being stick-to-your-ribs, heavy food — but this is a lighter and more delicate way of enjoying these ingredients that are ’soulmates’ together,” he says.

As an accompaniment, Karen Page, Dornenburg’s wife and co-author, suggests a mug of the lager used in the sauce, a glass of Beaujolais or a can of Dr. Brown’s celery-flavored Cel-Ray soda.

Corned Beef Rolls with Dipping Sauce
Yield: 8 servings (48 rolls)

1 large head of green cabbage
1 ½ pounds cold corned beef
1 bottle Irish lager (beer)
2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
2 red onions, very finely diced
½ cup Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons honey
Salt and pepper to taste

For the cabbage rolls: Cut the cabbage in half. Gently peel off leaves, keeping them whole. In two batches, simmer the leaves in a large pot of water for 8-10 minutes or until soft. Pull from the pot and cool in an ice-water bath. Pat leaves dry, and set aside.

Slice the corned beef into matchsticks about a quarter-inch thick and 2 inches long. (Use leftover corned beef or go to a good delicatessen and have them cut thick slices).

Lay out a single cabbage leaf. Place 4 to 6 matchstick slices at one end and roll tightly. After all the leaves are rolled, cut into equal lengths of about an inch.

For the dipping sauce: Boil the beer until it reduces to 4 teaspoons. Let cool.

Meanwhile, heat oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add onions. Lower to medium-low heat. Caramelize slowly for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Let cool.

Combine onions, mustard, honey and beer. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper. If sauce is too thick, add a few drops of water to thin it.

Serve cabbage rolls with dipping sauce.