Ron Fromm is more accustomed to overseeing his company's shoe operations in China than hanging out backstage at Black Eyed Peas concerts.
But the chief executive of Clayton-based Brown Shoe Co. is quickly getting schooled in the latter. As he milled about a company-sponsored reception at Scottrade Center before a concert last month, Fromm estimated that he's been to four of their concerts in the last couple of years — not counting a plane ride he's shared with one its stars, Fergie.
But it's not just about the music.
In 2008, Brown Shoe signed an agreement with Fergie to create a licensed footwear brand. The shoes, which debuted in stores in the spring of last year, have been gaining traction ever since, the company says. Wine-colored pumps from the Fergie line grace the cover of this month's People Stylewatch. And some of the boots in this fall's collection have already been selling out at Nordstrom.
Fergie, the more upscale line, is sold at department stores like Nordstrom, while Fergalicious, the brand's more affordable counterpart, can be found at outlets such as Brown Shoe's Famous Footwear stores.
Fergie has been "phenomenal to work with," Fromm said before the St. Louis concert. "She has done everything that you can ever ask someone to help support the success of her line."
But long-term success is not necessarily a sure thing. While celebrity branding has permeated much of the fashion and beauty world from fragrances to apparel, it hasn't been a blockbuster hit yet when it comes to footwear, analysts say.
"We've seen more flops than successes," said Marshal Cohen, chief retail analyst with the NPD Group. "A lot of these brands only last a year or two."
Brown Shoe, which offers other brands such as Dr. Scholl's and Franco Sarto, first dipped its toes in celebrity footwear with the "Carlos by Carlos Santana" brand, which debuted in 2001. The brightly colored shoe line, which includes lots of high heels, is sold at department stores like Macy's.
In the spring of 2008, Brown Shoe also launched celebrity-licensed footwear brands for country music star Reba McEntire, which are sold exclusively at Dillard's, and with beauty expert Gretta Monahan, which are sold on QVC.
Christopher Svezia, an analyst with investment firm Susquehanna International Group, said in an e-mail that it's been difficult to gauge how well the Fergie/Fergalicious brand has been doing thus far.
But he noted that Brown Shoe executives have not singled out its performance in conference calls recently. And he added that the Fergalicious line seems to have had more success than the department store Fergie line.
As for the category of celebrity footwear as a whole, he said he didn't know of many success stories either. "Continuing to support and evolve the brand is always an issue," he added.
The connection between celebrities and shoes dates back to the 1970s when New York Knicks player Walt "Clyde" Frazier first hooked up with Puma on the iconic "Clyde" shoe. But the footwear industry as a whole never took celebrity branding much further than the athletic shoe arena until the last couple of years, said Cohen of the NPD Group, of which Brown Shoe is a client.
Part of the problem may have been that celebrities tend to come out with lines in their sweet spot, he said.
"Footwear is a big leap for some of these celebrities," he said. "That's what makes it harder. And that's why Carlos Santana was so interesting. It was such a far reach — not a guy you would think of being a footwear designer. But it works. It's a unique design."
But these days there is no rhyme or reason to the kinds of lines a celebrity will delve into, he said. Supermodel Cindy Crawford is doing furniture. And many people probably don't even know that one of the most successful celebrity brands — Jaclyn Smith, one of the original Charlie's Angels — is a celebrity at all, Cohen said.
"If I want to start a new brand today, I have to go through a whole marketing campaign," he said. "But if I use a celebrity as part of the process, you have almost instant recognition."
But the name on the shoe is not enough. The design and fit of the shoe also have to be there, he said.
Sarah Jessica Parker's low-cost apparel and shoe line at Steve & Barry's seemed like a no-brainer. The actress' character, Carrie Bradshaw, on the hit cable show "Sex in the City" was infamous for her obsession with fashion and shoes.
"But the whole formula didn't work," Cohen said. "As much as you can offer great recognition, you need to have a great product. The fit and quality wasn't there. The design wasn't there. ... You still have to deliver the goods."
Fergie, whose real name is Stacy Ferguson, doesn't just slap her name on the shoes, but is involved in the development of the line, said Andrew Smith, general manager of Fergie/Fergalicious.
Brown Shoe's style department comes up with designs that embody her personality as a pop star and then she reviews them, he said.
"Then she comments, 'We need more of this. I'd like to see it this way,' " he said. "Then we go back and interpret."
Even while on tour this summer in Europe, Fergie e-mailed photos of shoes she liked and of possible materials that could be used in future seasons, he added.
"And probably more than any other celebrity or celebrity brand, she models the product by wearing it," Smith said.
For example, she wore black, high-heeled gladiator sandals from her line during a Black Eyed Peas performance on Good Morning America in July. And next week, both Fergie and Carlos Santana will make appearances at department stores in Los Angeles and San Francisco, respectively, on behalf of their shoe lines as part of Fashion's Night Out.
Fergie declined a Post-Dispatch request for an interview.
But at the Brown Shoe reception before the concert, Fergie told the small crowd that she often wears her own shoes because, well, she likes them.
As she sported knee-length brown suede boots from her fall collection, she said, "I feel sometimes I'm like the 'rock and roll' Carrie Bradshaw because I can't throw a pair away."





