Desserts on the Boulevard serves sweets and more

2012-05-11T00:00:00Z 2012-08-09T17:57:27Z Desserts on the Boulevard serves sweets and moreBY GABE HARTWIG • > 314-340-8353

UPDATE Desserts on the Boulevard is closed after a fire in July. 

I'd been driving past Desserts on the Boulevard since its opening in January and dismissing it as simply a bakery. But names often are deceptive.

A bit of research indicated that it's also a nightspot — "St. Louis' premiere wine and dessert bar," a sign outside says.

On our visit, Desserts on the Boulevard had lots of energy but lacked the focus hinted at by its name and tagline. A pay-per-view boxing match (owing to the $10 cover) had packed the house. And a live band was so loud that we were unable to carry on a conversation at our table on the opposite end of the room. Neither seemed to jibe with the elegant furnishings, swoopy fabric draped overhead or artistic touches sprinkled around the room.

We couldn't hear our server over the band, but he helpfully pointed out drink recommendations on the menu. A Sparkling Cosmo ($8; cranberry-citrus purée, cava), made with champagne instead of vodka, was a good twist on the played-out cosmo. The Cosmic Cosmo ($9; Midnight Moon, Cointreau, lemon and cranberry juice) was much more interesting; its 100-proof cranberry moonshine was smooth and sippable but was followed by a gentle kick. The lime-wedge garnishes for both drinks seemed like an uninspired afterthought, though.

When the band had finished its set, I inquired about desserts. They're listed separately from the multipage menu of appetizers, salads, sandwiches, entrees and cocktails. A place with "desserts" in its name ought to make a bigger fuss about its desserts.

Our server made a few suggestions from the list of cakes, cheesecakes and ice creams, and we decided on a delicious slice of Diva's Delight ($6.99), two moist layers of rich chocolate cake and a brandied-cherry filling, covered in sweet ganache and whipped cream.

Desserts on the Boulevard seems to want to be a lot of things: dessert bar, restaurant, music venue and an occasional sports bar. But a bit of editing would better serve it — and its patrons.

Desserts on the Boulevard

Where 3949 Lindell Boulevard • More info 314-533-3377, • Smoking No • Hours 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Friday-Saturday, 2-10 p.m. Sunday

Gabe Hartwig is the creative director of Go! magazine. He also writes about bars and theater. Follow him on Twitter and Facebook, and find more recommendations by Go! on Foursquare.

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Night Shift

Gabe Hartwig often burns the midnight oil, but it's not as bad as it sounds. He reviews bars that are new to the Lou and keeps tabs on what's opening and closing. His Night Shift column appears Fridays in Go! magazine. Join Gabe on Facebook and Twitter, and find more recommendations by our critics on Foursquare.