The eclectic Midtown Alley neighborhood has seen a lot of development lately, and the recent opening of Plush St. Louis brings together a bar, coffeehouse, diner and music venue in one inviting package.
On a recent Monday evening, when it's often tricky to find a place that's open late, we stopped at Plush for a nightcap and comfort food. There wasn't a cocktail menu to order from — though one is in the works and will be available soon, owner Maebelle Reed tells me — so we threw caution to the wind.
A gin and tonic ($4) and a bourbon and Coke ($4), both served in 16-ounce glasses, were mixed well and priced even better. Our attentive bartender Rick also did a superb job with a classic Manhattan ($10; rye, vermouth, bitters, cherry garnish), taking great care in chilling the glass and in the presentation of the finished drink.
Plush stocks a good selection of craft beers, both in bottles and on draft. Rick suggested we try a dark, chocolatey Urban Chestnut Harwood Myth ($2.50 for 9 ounces; $4.75 for 16 ounces), a porter that's brewed just a few blocks away.
Our piping-hot pile of Plush fries ($4) — soft and potatoey with the edges slightly crispy from the peels — arrived quickly, served with two dipping sauces. There are nine sauces available; we chose spicy-sweet Sal's Sassy Sauce and a creamy peanut sauce. Reasons to return for more meals: meatloaf minicupcakes and Southern-fried chicken wings with chicken-sausage gravy.
Plush books a variety of musical acts, many with no cover charge, though the stage was dark on our visit. Instead, folks chatted over a large table, dined in booths, sipped cocktails at the bar and quietly tended to paperwork comfortably in the same big space.
Mismatched furniture, kitschy artwork and unusual things glued on the walls (feathers, cans, Poly-fil) make the shabby-chic space homey yet elegant.
Reed also owns a Plush in Tucson, Ariz., but her creation in St. Louis feels like it came from its own distinct mold.
Plush St. Louis
Where 3224 Locust Street • More info 314-535-2686, plushstl.com, facebook.com • Smoking No • Hours 7 a.m.-1 a.m. daily
Gabe Hartwig is the creative director of Go! magazine. He also writes about bars and theater. Follow him on Twitter and Facebook, and find more recommendations by Go! on Foursquare.
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