Spring may be full of neons and breezy flirty dresses, but the women of fall 2012 are preparing for battle. Whether their objective is your attention or world domination is anyone's guess, but the looks trotting down runways in New York for Fashion Week were anything but subdued. There was sex appeal galore and plenty for the vixen-next-door to choose from. The looks weren't just brazen but strong and serious. Fall 2012 is not for the coy.
RED
After the American Heart Association's annual Heart Truth Red Dress runway show of celebrities on parade in one-of-a-kind designer crimson gowns, some spectators joked, "Do you think red is a trend?" The heart association's event was the night before the official start of Fashion Week, but aside from raising awareness, they were the first to flaunt fall's new favorite color. From gorgeous lacquered red wide-legged pants at St. John to floor-length glitzy red dresses at Monique Lhuillier and shimmery layered red fringe at Tadashi Shoji and red glam dresses at Diane von Furstenberg, the color was prominent on dozens of runways by midweek. Cynthia Rowley was even curiously inspired to produce a red tortoise print. Jason Wu started his show with the opening of enormous red doors, and Reem Acra chose to have a glowing red wall at the end of her runway. Tracy Reese opted for a more girly tomato red in her collection that leaned toward orange; so did Kate Spade — no surprise, each designer is know for twirling to the beat of their own drummers, not following or setting trends.
MILITARY
Tommy Hilfiger presented the most literal references to military attire with his Cadet Academy men's show. He used the same influences of young cadets who ride horses in their free time in his women's collection, but he called it Town & Country: "Greenwich meets Park Avenue." A number of the looks seemed nearly identical in composition, but they weren't gender neutral. The fits were precise, and the details were well-chosen. The overall palette of colors was warm and cozy — burgundy, sapphire blue, brown, mustard, forest green — but the cuts of the clothing were strong and polished.
On the opposite end of the military spectrum, Jason Wu was inspired by the Mao military jacket, as well as Marlene Dietrich in "Shanghai Express." The result was a femme fatale collection of clothing that was ready for battle, but you weren't sure if the battle was love or war. He had a parade of models who strutted out to a complex drum beat. His silhouettes were full of strong shoulders and cinched waists, but he mixed leathers with delicate lace and liquid satins.
FETISH
Though most looks had a surprising conservatism — below-the-knee skirts and high necks — there was definitely a good deal of something I'd call "lady with a whip" ensembles. Herve Leger went from bandage dresses to bondage-like leather harnesses for day or evening. Clearly, not a choice for everyone, but the overall look was funky, sexy and more hip than kinky.
On other runways, we saw open-knit turtlenecks extended up to cover the mouths of the models. It made it appear that their faces were partially caged. Hilfiger toyed with thin leather belts as collars on some dresses and blouses (yep, belts around the neck, and I can't believe I'm saying this, but the results were pretty tame and dare I say quite chic.) Even at the typically girly Monique Lhuillier runway, a model was in a fitted red dress — one of many — with a black leather corset waist.
SHEER
This probably plays into the former trend, but it wasn't necessarily fetish. Sometimes, it was used to create a trompe l'oeil effect, but sometimes it was just used to add a breath of fresh air to a heavy autumn ensemble. At Reem Acra, the designer's most eye-catching gown looked like patches of black fabric had been glued to the model. She did the same with dazzling gold gowns. The sheer flesh-toned illusion was provocative, and the effect was Oscar-gown worthy. At Gurung, he used sheer black inserts at the waist and décolletage of some gowns and tops with a seductive result.
Meanwhile at BCBG Max Azria, sheers were added to the hems of dresses to offer the silhouette of a midi-dress with the freshness of a shorter skirt.
Max and Lubov Azria also used a slim line of sheer from neck to waist on some gowns to entice the eye. At 3.1 Phillip Lim, he used sheer cap sleeves and bodice to create the illusion of a jumpsuit bustier.
LEATHER
Aside from the many leather accents, including python inserts on evening gowns at Carmen Marc Valvo, leather was offered up in many flirty ways for fall. DKNY featured flouncy leather skirts. Christian Siriano paired a leather motorcycle jacket with a floor-length tulle ball gown. Charlotte Ronson presented red leather pants that looked vaguely equestrian, and among Marc Jacobs' expertly designed fabrics, he produced tweeds bonded to leather for his collection.
