The Jewish New Year, which begins at sundown Sept. 8, is one of the most important occasions on the Jewish calendar. A central part of its observance is the Rosh Hashana dinner, which emphasizes sweet foods in hopeful anticipation of a sweet year to come.

For most American Jews, Rosh Hashana meals are in the Ashkenazi style, with their roots in the customs of their Eastern and Central European forbears. The meals typically feature brisket with dried fruit, irresistible sweet carrots, and, for dessert, honey cake. This is the tradition I grew up with.

But I must admit that since my in-laws in Israel introduced me to Mediterranean (Sephardic) Jewish cuisine years ago, I have enjoyed cooking Rosh Hashana meals even more. The diverse ingredients and the variety of fresh flavors provide many opportunities for creativity.

Certain Rosh Hashana traditions are observed on Jewish tables around the world, such as dipping apples in honey. In Ashkenazi and Sephardic homes alike, fish and sweet vegetables such as carrots are important elements on the menu. To these, however, Jews from Mediterranean lands add their own customs: At the beginning of the meal, they have a mini Seder, or special ceremony that somewhat recalls the Passover Seder. For this Rosh Hashana ritual, they recite special New Year blessings on symbolic foods, including pomegranate seeds to wish for numerous good deeds, leeks and chard for divine protection, and black-eyed peas for abundance.

These special foods are incorporated into Jewish New Year menus in different ways. Frequently, each is prepared on its own as a cold appetizer. Leeks are often braised with a touch of tomato. Chard is sautéed with garlic, olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice. Italian Jews might include beets among the sweet vegetables, and make them into a salad or combine them with potatoes and green beans. Some Moroccan Jews poach the vegetables with raisins or other dried fruit and serve them sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar as a sweet topping for the hearty holiday entree known as couscous with seven vegetables.

Usually, fresh pomegranate seeds are served on their own in small bowls, but they also make a lovely accent for salads of all kinds, and they lift the usual green salads or diced Mediterranean vegetable salads to festive status. Along with toasted nuts, they make a colorful, delicious garnish for holiday rice or bulgur wheat side dishes.

Many Mediterranean Jews serve fresh figs for Rosh Hashana, as they are at the peak of their season, as well as dates. Greek, Turkish and Moroccan Jews serve sweet poached quinces, sometimes as an appetizer. The cinnamon-scented quinces also are a lovely accompaniment for a holiday honey cake.

Rosh Hashana fish prepared the Mediterranean Jewish way is often baked simply with a sprinkling of olive oil, stewed with sweet peppers, or poached in a light tomato sauce. The fish is usually served cool or at room temperature as an appetizer.

In most households, the holiday entree features beef or chicken. Unlike Ashkenazi cooks, who prefer their chicken roasted for the festive dinner, Mediterranean Jews often braise or stew their chicken. In Greek and Turkish homes, chicken pieces are simmered with tomatoes, white wine, parsley and garlic. Moroccans might prepare meat or chicken as lavish stews with dried fruit, saffron and cinnamon sticks. Some poach chicken or beef meatballs with fresh peas or with sugar-glazed baby onions. For the richly flavored sauces created by these stews, a festive rice pilaf or a platter of steamed couscous, with a topping of toasted almonds and raisins, is the preferred partner.

Faye Levy's cookbooks include "Feast from the Mideast" (HarperCollins, 2003).