Q: I recently enjoyed a piece of salmon at Bartolino's South. It was served over orzo with a tasty, light butter sauce.

— Charlotte Moret, Crestwood

A: In 1961, Bart and Roseanne Saracino and other family members opened the first of several family-style restaurants. Today, sons John, Bart Jr., Mike and Chris run three restaurants. Two carry the Bartolino brand, coined by combining the names "Bart" and "(Sarac)ino": Bartolino's South on South Lindbergh Boulevard and Bartolino's Osteria on The Hill. Chris' Pancake & Dining is also on The Hill.

John Saracino says that the Bartolino locations are known for pizzas, linguine tutto mare and chicken spiedini.

Bartolino's South sells 70 to 80 plates of salmon with orzo every week. The dish was introduced as a Lenten special but was so popular it found a place on the restaurant's summer and fall menus and can be cooked to order any time.

Greg Jones has cooked for Bartolino restaurants for 35 years and runs the kitchens for Bartolino's South and Bartolino's Osteria. He passes along several tips. First, he says, start with good, fresh salmon, the fresher the better. If the salmon is frozen, it should be thawed completely in the refrigerator. When cooking the fish, he advises, "The grill or skillet mustn't be too hot; you don't want the fillets to sear." Finally, Jones says, "The salmon is very delicate. Be careful when moving it onto the plates of orzo."

Special Request is written by Kirkwood resident Alanna Kellogg, author of the online recipe column KitchenParade.com and "veggie evangelist" at the food blog about vegetables, A Veggie Venture.