CAJUN DRY-RUBBED SPARERIBS

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

3 tablespoons paprika

2 teaspoons dry mustard

2 teaspoons onion powder

2 teaspoons garlic powder

2 teaspoons ground red (cayenne) pepper

1 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

1 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled

1 teaspoon dried coriander

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 to 8 pounds spareribs, cut into smaller racks

1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In a gallon-size plastic food bag, combine all the seasonings and shake until blended. Drop the ribs into the bag and shake until well coated. Remove ribs to a cutting board and rub the seasoning mixture thoroughly over them, pressing it with your fingers.

2. Arrange the ribs in a large, shallow roasting pan. Let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes.

3. Roast ribs, uncovered, until very tender, about 2 hours, basting occasionally with fat from the pan. (If desired, transfer to a grill and cook over indirect heat for the last 30 minutes.)

4. Cut into serving portions.

Per serving (based on 6): 613 calories; 51g fat; 16.5g saturated fat; 173mg cholesterol; 34g protein; 3g carbohydrate; 2g fiber; 564mg sodium.

Adapted from "Pig: King of the Southern Table," by James Villas (Wiley, $34.95).