Since my friend Rhonda and I were celebrating her birthday over lunch, we decided to order wine. I've known Rhonda for most of my adult life — we started our careers together as cub reporters shortly after graduating from college. As we toasted our friendship, we reminisced about how our taste in wine has progressed over the years from sweet to dry.
We both remembered drinking Boone's Farm in college. That led to Mateus Rosé, Bolla Soave and eventually to Mouton Cadet from France's Bordeaux region. While we weren't sure exactly when we began drinking Mouton Cadet, Rhonda and I recalled how good we thought it was at the time.
Mouton Cadet is a label of moderately priced Bordeaux wines created by the legendary winegrower Baron Philippe de Rothschild and named after his premier cru vineyard, Château Mouton Rothschild. The Mouton Cadet Bordeaux red was launched in the 1930s, and the Bordeaux blanc (white) was added in the 1970s.
The discussion made me realize how many years had passed since I tasted a Mouton Cadet wine. I had just spotted the 2010 Bordeaux blanc for $8.99 in the French section at Trader Joe's in Brentwood, and I thought it would be fun to compare it to a white Bordeaux that cost a few dollars more. I chose another popular Bordeaux blanc, the 2010 Château Ducasse, which I found for $13.99 at the Wine and Cheese Place in Clayton. The Château Ducasse is imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, respected for its French and Italian selections.
Both wines come from Bordeaux's primary appellation of the same name in southwestern France. That means the grapes can come from anywhere in that region. Both are blends made from the three varietals of white grapes allowed for a Bordeaux classification: sauvignon blanc, sémillon and muscadelle. They contain different proportions of these varietals, but the differences in flavor and body are small. Both wines would go well with appetizers or a variety of lighter entrees, such as fish, chicken or dinner salads.
The Château Ducasse is a bit more refined, a little softer and a tad lighter in body than the Mouton Cadet. Also, the label states that the wine was bottled at the château where the grapes were grown. This white Bordeaux has a 12 percent level of alcohol and is made from 60 percent sémillon, 35 percent sauvignon blanc and 5 percent muscadelle. It is a crisp, aromatic wine that tastes of peaches with a hint of grapefruit and mineral. The sémillon tames the herbaceousness of the sauvignon blanc, while the sauvignon blanc lends good acidity.
The Mouton Cadet has a bit fuller body with an alcohol level of 12.5 percent. It's made up of 65 percent sauvignon blanc, 30 percent sémillon and 5 percent muscadelle. Like the Château Ducasse, it's aromatic and crisp with grapefruit notes. However, it's a little more herbaceous than the Château Ducasse due to the higher proportion of sauvignon blanc. That can be a plus, depending on your palate.
As for me, the years haven't changed my opinion. I still think the Mouton Cadet is a tasty wine at an affordable price.


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