You say "chicken soup for the soul," and I say "pho-getta about it."

My idea of emotional rescue isn't curling up with some Campbell's and a blankie. To cure what ails me, I'll take the diviest of corner dives on a rainy day and a vast, steaming bowl of pho, the Vietnamese soup of broth, rice noodles and gloriously varied combinations of meats, garnishes and sauces.

Pho is the reason why Truc Lam isn't just a restaurant — it's a miracle cure.

Located on a particularly dingy stretch of Gravois, Truc Lam isn't much to look at, but then, visiting on the waning side of a nasty bug, I wasn't much either. Inside, it's low ceilings, the occasional cloud of smoke, Vietnamese music warbling through speakers and a good 20 kinds of pho on the menu.

Straightforward palates should consider pho ga ($6), which captures the essence of chicken with its clear, delicate broth and generous shreds of breast meat.

But those who appreciate a whiff of mystery should beeline straight to Truc Lam Pho ($7), a bracing celebration of all parts of the cow and proof that wonder can live in a bowl. More familiar cuts like red-rare flank steak and tender brisket are joined with white, chewy tendrils of tripe, paté-like beef meatballs and meltingly fatty tendon. They bathe with silky rice noodles in rich, meaty broth.

Give it all a tart shot of lime juice, the cooling garnish of mung bean sprouts and leafy culantro (similar to cilantro), the potent additional warmth of chili garlic sauce, and pronounce yourself healed.