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Warm fall days bring out the best in French whites
![]() Gail Appleson ST. LOUIS POST-DISPATCH
For those of us who work and/or live downtown, Schnuck Markets' Culinaria is a welcome newcomer. The 27,000-square-foot store may not have as much of a selection as a suburban Schnucks, but there's still plenty of choice. The liquor department on the mezzanine even has a wine bar and space for tastings and classes. I took advantage of a recent lunchtime visit to pick out wine for that evening. The day was warm, and I thought I'd get some white to enjoy on my balcony. I was pleased to see the 2008 M. Chapoutier Belleruche Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc ($13.99). I've enjoyed the Belleruche red, but I had never tasted the white. Chapoutier is a respected French producer of Rhône wines grown through biodynamic farming principles. Among the interesting things about the Belleruche label is that it's embossed with Braille. According to the company's website, Braille has been on all of Chapoutier's labels since 1996. The wine is made of Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc grapes. Grenache Blanc and Clairette produce whites that generally have a bit of heft. Clairette and Bourboulenc are known for floral aromas. The blend in this Côtes-du-Rhône blanc makes for a delicious medium-bodied white that is fresh, fragrant and lively. This is a well-balanced white with an interesting mix of peach and citrus notes. It ends with a nice, long finish. It would be good with seafood risotto, grilled fish or chicken in a cream sauce. For a second white, I chose the 2007 Mont Tauch Old Vines Vieilles Vignes, Vin de Pays du Torgan ($9.99). Mont Tauch is a major French cooperative based in the heart of the Fitou appellation in southern France. Vin de Pays du Torgan is produced in the three villages of Paziols, Tuchan and Davejean. The grapes come from the hills, where the Torgan river meanders through rocky valleys. This wine is made from Grenache Blanc that is grown on vines that are some 50 years old. This is also a tasty, crisp, floral white. Although this wine doesn't have the same finesse or complexity as the Chapoutier, it was still very good. It's a lighter-bodied white that's low in acid and leaves a nice mouth coating. It would work well as an aperitif or as a pair with appetizers or light entrees.
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