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Meramec Highlands has history as resort area
As Big Bend Boulevard makes a curve west of Interstate 270, two country lanes are tucked away amid the modern subdivisions. Barberry Lane and Ponca Trail are a thickly shaded oasis of historic cottages, porch swings, mailboxes and a bench or two for weary travelers in Kirkwood. Some of the cottages have names attached to the clapboards: Ferndale, Belleglade, Riverview, Rockledge. They are part of the Meramec Highlands Historic District, bounded by Big Bend, Barberry and the Burlington Northern railroad tracks, and represent the vestiges of what began as an exclusive summer health spa and resort more than a century ago. Jim Baker lives in a home that used to be the Meramec Highlands general store. People know one another in the close-knit neighborhood, he said. "It's a nice little street," he said. "There's some neighborhood get-togethers at least a couple times a year. You pretty much know who's coming down the street." Some might think the named cottages are bed-and-breakfast inns, but all are private residences, Baker said. They are survivors: former guest cottages built around the old Meramec Highlands Inn, which burned in 1926. Originally they were rented by the day or week; later, workers at the resort lived in the homes. Baker is the author of "Glimpses of Meramec Highlands," a history of the area. He now is working on an enhanced version of "Glimpses," with an index, introductory chapter and recent history. He's also working on another history, "King Trolley and the Suburban Queens," and hopes to have both books completed by June. "The actual resort area extended from the Meramec River north to the Missouri Pacific tracks; it was a good-sized territory," Baker said. "It started on the east at Marshall Road, roughly where it comes into Big Bend. The Meramec Highlands Quarry was part of it." Farther west, the resort extended just past a streetcar turnaround on Quinette Road, the former name for the western section of Big Bend. The resort featured the first electric lights in the area, running water, mineral water bathhouse, a general store, billiard hall, bowling alley, swimming beach and boathouse, according to the book, "Historic Kirkwood Landmarks." Resort developer Marcus Bernheim built the Pagoda Dance Hall atop an existing 400-foot limestone train tunnel. Bernheimer also built the resort's train station on Barberry Lane and sold it to the St. Louis and San Francisco Railroad in 1891 for one dollar in exchange for rail service, Baker noted. With the advent of the streetcars, the resort became privy to a less exclusive crowd who came to enjoy dancing, swimming and boating. Another dance hall, Eden Park, was built on the north side of Big Bend adjacent to the resort and featured games of chance. In 1925, the resort property was sold at a tax sale to a team of developers named Bixby and Smith, who opened the Osage Hills Country Club. Across Quinette Road, upscale homes were built later as part of the Greenbriar subdivision. At one point in the 1950s, the older homes on Barberry and Ponca Trail were considered almost undesirable due in part to the outdated sewer service, which was upgraded in the 1970s by the Metropolitan St. Louis Sewer District, Baker said. Today, the popularity and charm of Meramec Highlands is indisputable to residents and developers alike. While serving on the city's Planning and Zoning Commission several years ago, Kirkwood City Council member Mike Lynch recalled a failed attempt by a developer to build a subdivision there, and recommended residents buy the property themselves. Later, Agape Construction succeeded in developing a subdivision out of the former train station property at the south end of Barberry Lane after a legal battle. In a 4-3 vote, the City Council in August 2001 turned down Agape's request to rezone the property, Lynch said. In October 2001, Agape and property owner Thomas Biggs filed suit in St. Louis County Circuit Court, seeking actual damages in excess of $100,000 and punitive damages in excess of $250,000. The judge in the case issued a judgment against the city on March 19, 2002, finding the existing zoning unreasonable, Lynch said. He also dismissed the plaintiffs' request for their damages "without prejudice," which meant they could refile if the city refused to rezone, Lynch said. On March 28, 2002, the council reviewed a draft rezoning resolution prepared by Kirkwood City Attorney John Hessel. The agreement was approved April 4, 2002 by every council member except Councilman Joe Godi, who voted against it. In the agreement, Agape agreed to try to sell the old train station to someone who would use it as a home or, after two years, offer it back to the city. The developer also agreed to seal the old train tunnel so area children couldn't get inside and hurt themselves. "There have been some complaints since then, everything from dirt in the streets to concerns about the use of explosives to break up the rock underground," Lynch said. "They're progressing nicely and they've won some awards." Agape has built the first of 10 homes planned for the subdivision, which will range in price from $495,000 to the mid $600,000s, Agape president and owner Kevin O'Brien said. The rehabbed train station sells for $450,000 as it stands or $800,000 with a builder-designed addition, he said. "The depot as it exists is maybe 1,100 square feet, no basement or garage," O'Brien said. "It's a very appealing building, but it's not practical for a family. Whatever we do to the depot, it has to be done in a way that is historically accurate and will pass the Kirkwood Landmarks Commission." Together with KMOV-TV (Channel 4) and TL Concepts of Kansas City, Agape will begin construction soon on a concept home with state-of-the-art amenities, an atrium ranch with a walkout lower level, O'Brien said. The home will be featured on upcoming television newscasts, he said. Lot #9 of the subdivision is where the old Meramec Highlands Inn used to sit, O'Brien said. The tunnel has been barricaded with bars so that bats can nest there, he said. The area will serve as common ground for the subdivision, he added. "In the summertime, if you stand at the mouth of the tunnel, you get just a beautiful cool breeze," he said. "It's the perfect place for block parties. We've had one sale so far, and we're getting a lot more traffic now that spring is upon us." Existing residents are carefully observing the progress. "It's not moving very fast," Baker mentioned. "The one advantage was the train station was saved, at least on the outside. We'll have to see how the rest of it affects the neighborhood." The old quarry — which once provided stone for the building foundations — has found a new use as well. Area residents and council members worked diligently to keep the 9.5-acre property a haven for wildlife and admirers of nature. With the help of understanding property owners, the Koesterings, they were successful. Today, Meramec Highlands Quarry at Dee Koestering Park is a passive park with walking trails at 1703 Marshall Road. You can contact Robbi Courtaway at rcourtaway@yourjournal.com.
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