The answer to the question, "Mara, Mara, how does your garden grow?" keeps growing for the program director of Gateway Greening.

Mara Higdon hints at small challenges of many gardeners: "Even with the heat, things have been growing very well in general. We've struggled a little with some of the crops, but animals have struggled, too, with bunnies eating more to get water and moisture."

Beans and squash have been plentiful. The cabbage harvest was "fairly good" and cantaloupe and heat-loving okra thrived. Grafted heirloom tomato plants are healthy surprises, with the welcome donation arriving without identification of the colorful fruit. This year's new vegetable, eggplant, arrived with beetles competing for the feast.

Chefs in a Garden, Gateway Greening's fundraiser on Sunday that puts fresh foods on guests' plates with the help of 11 talented and imaginative chefs, helps expand school and community gardens, emphasizing food production for low-income people, donations to Food Outreach and food pantries and sales at Tower Grove Farmers Market.

"We are still somewhat agrarian in St. Louis, with links to the agricultural or gardening background of the South. The challenge is getting this knowledge to the younger generation," Higdon said. Gateway Greening awarded 13 new school gardens this year, bringing to 77 the number where teachers use gardens as classrooms. Since 2006, a total of 26,000 pounds of food has been produced at the 2.5-acre City Seeds Urban Farm.

Chefs in a Garden links chefs to this soil-to-table creation while making money for future endeavors. Tom Schmidt has been part of the event since his restaurant, Franco, opened almost five years ago adjacent to Soulard Market, a measured decision to be close to his food sources.

"This year we actually had the opportunity to take over a gardening plot of a city lot at Pennsylvania and Potomac," he said. Melons, beans, lettuces, tomatoes, beans, potatoes were some foods he prepared. One of his early employees, Nicole Rebeck, manages the garden.

"Gateway Greening is such a great cause," Schmidt said. He matches Higdon's enthusiasm for cool-weather crops as seasons change. Changing Franco's menu weekly is not unusual.

"Four to eight items on the menu at a time during the growing season showcase what is best from the garden. It makes a chef more organic and more involved to walk across the street and get out of the kitchen to meet the farmer," he said.

This year Schmidt will prepare and serve Provencal Corn Souffle with Tomato Fondue.

---

PROVENCAL CORN SOUFFLE WITH TOMATO FONDUE

2 cups corn, cut off cob

1 tsp. sugar

1/2 tsp. baking powder

1/2 tbsp. cornmeal

2/3 tbsp. flour

1/2 tbsp. salt

1/2 tsp. herbs de Provence

2 oz. (1/2 stick) butter, melted

1.25 oz. goat cheese

1 egg, separated

Souffle Filling

Tomato Fondue

In food processor, puree corn about 2 minutes to smooth puree.

In small bowl, mix together sugar, baking powder, cornmeal, flour, salt and herbs. Combine with corn. With food processor running, add goat cheese until well incorporated. Add butter, then egg yolk in same manner.

Whisk egg white to stiff peaks. Fold gradually into corn mixture.

Souffle Filling: Cut 1 leek, 1 small bulb fennel and 1 red bell pepper in very small dice. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil. Sweat 2 cloves garlic, minced, in oil until just aromatic, being careful not to burn garlic. Add leek, fennel and bell pepper. Saute 5 to 7 minutes until soft. Turn off heat. Stir in 6 basil leaves, minced, pinch of herbs de Provence and salt and pepper, seasoning to taste. Let cool.

Tomato Fondue: In wide pot over medium-low heat, slowly cook 2 pounds tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cut in very small dice, in 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil until moisture evaporates and "all that remains is a jammy tomato goodness." Season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

Assembly and baking: Preheat oven 225 degrees. Grease 4-ounce oven-safe ramekins with mixture and dust with mixture of equal parts cornmeal and flour. In each prepared ramekin, place 2 ounces of corn mixture. Place 3/4 tablespoon Soufflé Filling on top of mix and top with 1.5 oz more corn mixture.

Place loaf pan with 1 inch water on deck of oven. Bake souffles on middle shelf about 20 minutes until set. Remove from oven and serve with Tomato Fondue.

Makes 4 servings.