COLUMBUS, IND. • How does a town of 39,000 people in rural Indiana end up being ranked sixth in the nation for architectural significance by the American Institute of Architects?

The answer is by having more than more than 70 buildings and pieces of public art by internationally noted architects and artists, among them I.M. Pei, Eliel Saarinen, Eero Saarinen, Richard Meier, Harry Weese, Dale Chihuly and Henry Moore.

Entering town, the first sign of architectural wonders to come is the glorious red Second Street Bridge. This cable-stayed bridge, completed in 1999, is the first of its kind in North America. The 40 cables that support the structure are in the shape of a fan.

This small, Midwestern town located in the center of a triangle formed by Indianapolis, Louisville, and Cincinnati boasts no fewer than six National Historic Landmarks — nationally significant historic places designated by the Secretary of the Interior. In 2005, the National Trust for Historic Preservation placed Columbus on its list of the "Dozen Distinctive Destinations in the U.S." Smithsonian magazine declared the city a "veritable museum of modern architecture."

In the architect's ranking, Columbus falls just under Chicago, Los Angeles, San Francisco, New York and Washington.

Much of the credit goes to the late J. Irwin Miller, an entrepreneur with an appreciation for modern architecture. His Cummins Engine Co., a local diesel engine manufacturer, remains the city's largest employer.

Miller established the Cummins Foundation and in 1957 made an offer that the foundation would pay all architects' fees for new public buildings in Columbus if the city selected the firms from a list of the world's top modern architects. The program began with schools (some of which are on the city's architecture tour) and was extended to other public buildings, such as fire stations and even the post office.

As an enthusiast of modern architecture and design — particularly mid-century modern — I was lucky enough to be invited by a friend to attend a special weekend architectural tour of Columbus.

Our tour group stayed just a stone's throw away from the Second Street Bridge and other downtown Columbus landmarks at the stylish Hotel Indigo. This new hotel (part of the national boutique chain that recently opened a location in the Central West End of St. Louis) has big-city style with a homey feel. Its lobby is decorated in true modernist style, with a stunning grouping of George Nelson Bubble Lamps forming a "chandelier" in the bright atrium.

Our tour began at the Columbus Visitor's Center, which offers regular bus tours of the city's architecture. We watched a brief film on the city's history and plans for the future, and then embarked on a walking tour of downtown.

The first stop was the stunning Cleo Rogers Memorial Library, designed by I.M. Pei. On the library's plaza, Henry Moore's "Large Arch" sculpture frames one of the earliest of Columbus' modern masterpieces, the First Christian Church. Designed by Finnish architect Eliel Saarinen (Eero Saarinen's father) as a break with traditional Gothic structures, the building heralded the beginning of modern architecture in Columbus and was one of the first contemporary churches in the United States. It is magnificent in its simplicity.

Though we saw numerous public and private buildings, all of superior design, the highlight of the tour for me was seeing several incredible examples of the partnership between Eero Saarinen and modern landscape architect Dan Kiley. This powerful design team should ring a bell with St. Louisans — Saarinen and Kiley worked together to design the Gateway Arch and surrounding grounds of the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial. They also worked together on the Irwin Union Bank in downtown Columbus, completed in 1954. With original furniture by George Nelson, another father of modernist design, the building remains a functional piece of art.

Possibly the most recognizable landmark in Columbus is another Saarinen/Kiley collaboration, North Christian Church. Completed in 1964, this was the last building designed by the younger Saarinen. The low, sloping roof of the six-sided building accentuates its slender 192-foot spire. Inside the sanctuary, light comes through a six-sided skylight, illuminating the rich mahogany pews and an original tapestry by 1960s Herman Miller textile designer Alexander Girard.

In addition to these wonderful public spaces, Columbus is home to what may be one of the most spectacular and well-designed private residences in the country, the J. Irwin Miller House and Garden. Miller commissioned Eero Saarinen to design the home, with Kiley landscaping and custom interiors by Girard. The result reflects the work of three masters of modernism collaborating at the height of their careers. The home was declared a National Historic Landmark in 2000 and was donated to the Indianapolis Museum of Art earlier this year. The museum plans to open the home for public tours beginning next year. Our group was lucky enough to get a sneak peak.

Upon entering the Miller House, everyone in our group fell silent, lumps forming in our throats. While it may be hard to imagine a house eliciting such a deeply profound and emotional reaction, this home and its 13-acre gardens command reverence. A true testament to the modern aesthetic of "less is more," the Miller House is not overly large or pretentious — it is simply a perfect use of space, design and materials.

Back at the comfy Hotel Indigo, we retired with visions of Saarinen dancing in our heads, marveling that such a city could exist smack-dab in the middle of the heartland.

Indeed, Columbus, Ind., is a study in urban planning and civic pride.

"Columbus is a place where people are always striving to do things in the best possible way. The architecture is a symbol of that commitment to excellence," says Cindy Frey, associate director of the Columbus Area Visitors Center. "When you explore the city and get to know its people and its programs, you learn that Columbus is forward-thinking when it comes to everything from city planning to education to social services. The people in this community are constantly recommitting themselves to improving the community."