With its abundance of cherries and lighthouses and fish boils, Door County, Wis., is a veritable treasure trove for vacationers.
Home to 10 historic lighthouses, five state parks, 30-plus islands and more than 300 miles of shoreline, Door County is a 75-mile-long peninsula that offers something for just about everyone, from outdoor sports and cultural events to shopping and fine dining.
Sandwiched between Lake Michigan to the east and Green Bay to the west, it features two distinctive coastlines. The Green Bay side bustles with activity and quaint towns such as Egg Harbor, Fish Creek and Ephraim. Although Sturgeon Bay, the county's biggest city, is on the Lake Michigan side, the lake side is called "the quiet side," offering a more relaxed pace. In between is a bounty of things to see, do and explore.
LAND OF LIGHTHOUSES
Door County's maritime heritage is alive and well and a big part of its attraction. Surrounded on three sides by water, the peninsula boasts the largest collection of lighthouses in the country. From May to October, three are open to visitors: Pottawatomie, Cana Island and Eagle Bluff.
Our introduction to the 1869 Cana Island lighthouse came on a stormy day in September 2007, when wind and rain hammered the lighthouse and fueled our imaginations about what it must have been like to live and work there in the early days. Returning on a hot, sunny day in May 2009, we were able to circle the catwalk at the top of the tower, enjoying spectacular views of the Lake Michigan shoreline. The lighthouse is operated by the Door County Maritime Museum (dcmm.org) and is now a county park and a must-see icon.
In Peninsula State Park, the Door County Historical Society offers guided tours of the restored 1868 Eagle Bluff lighthouse (eagleblufflighthouse.org), which is furnished in period antiques.
Dating from 1836, Pottawatomie is the oldest of the county's lighthouses. It is on tiny Rock Island, a pedestrian-only island accessible by ferry from Washington Island.
To really get into the lighthouse mood, you can stay at the Door County Lighthouse Inn B&B (dclighthouseinn.com) in Egg Harbor, operated by Claire and Frank Murphy. Actually, a modern building designed with lighthouse and other maritime touches, the inn provides a comfortable base for visiting the peninsula. The Murphys offer a package that includes a customized packed lunch and a detailed map for a self-guided driving tour of the area lighthouses.
Another option is the Door County Trolley (doorcountytrolley.com), which features four themed tours, including a lighthouse tour.
FISH BOIL FEVER
No trip to Door County is complete without an authentic fish boil dinner. Trust us, it tastes better than it sounds. The fish boil is a Door County tradition that is as colorful to watch as it is delicious to eat. The one-pot meal dates back more than a century, when Scandinavian settlers began cooking whitefish outdoors in this manner.
Freshly caught Lake Michigan whitefish, new red potatoes and sweet onions are cooked in salted water in a huge kettle over a wood fire. When the food is cooked, the boilmaster completes the ritual with the boilover. He pours kerosene onto the fire, which flares up, creating a plume of flame, a cloud of smoke and a big "whoosh" that signals the end of the cooking spectacle. Within minutes, the fish and vegetables are served hot on your plate, along with drawn butter, lemon wedges and coleslaw, followed, more often than not, by cherry pie.
The rationale for the boilover is that when the water boils up and over the edge of the kettle, it carries away the fish oils and scum on the surface, leaving no fishy taste.
During the summer and early fall, more than a dozen restaurants offer fish boils nightly; during the winter and spring, the White Gull Inn in Fish Creek and Square Rigger Restaurant in Jacksonport serve fish boils on weekends. It's wise to call ahead to verify days and times, or check out doorcounty.com/wheretodine/fishboils.aspx.
CHERRIES GALORE — AND MORE
Life is just a bowl of cherries in Door County, especially during the summer harvest, when fresh cherries find their way into pies and other foods throughout the peninsula. The rest of the year, frozen, dried or canned cherries keep up the theme, as do many cherry-inspired products, including jam, jelly, salsa and candies.
A visit to a cherry or apple orchard is a fun and tasty way to learn about the county's agricultural roots. A bumper crop of wineries dot the peninsula, too, offering cherry and apple wines and ciders, as well as berry and grape wines. We enjoyed a stop at Orchard Country Winery and Cider Mill near Fish Creek for a tour, tasting and a bit of retail therapy.
Cherry pie is Door County's signature dessert, and we made it our mission to seek out the best. After some serious taste-testing and more than a few calories, our favorite was the cherry-rhubarb streusel pie at the Washington Hotel on Washington Island, followed by the cherry pie at the White Gull Inn in Fish Creek. Another good pie is served at Wilson's Restaurant and Ice Cream Parlor in Ephraim. A local landmark since 1906, Wilson's is best known for its old-fashioned soda fountain, ice cream treats and homemade root beer.
In the late 1600s, a French fur trader was so impressed by the abundance of food and game on the peninsula, he called it "a kingdom so delicious." Today's visitors can't help but notice the area's bounty. For three weeks each September, Door County celebrates its farm-to-table harvest season with the Kingdom So Delicious festival, featuring local chefs and food producers in a variety of events, from tours to dinners. The icing on the festival is the season's colorful fall foliage.
AROUND WASHINGTON ISLAND
For a fun day trip, hop on the Washington Island Ferry (wisferry.com) for a 30-minute ride from the mainland to Washington Island, the state's largest. Dubbed the crown jewel of Door County, Washington Island was settled in 1850 by Icelandic immigrants.
Board the Cherry Train (cherrytrain.com) for a narrated tour with brief stops at points of interest, or transport your car on the ferry and drive yourself around the island.
Don't miss the Stavkirke, or stave church; the Farm Museum, showcasing life on an 1880s farm; or Schoolhouse Beach, with its white limestone rocks. Get close to the island's coastline on a guided kayak tour led by Bread and Water Kayaks. Stop for a great meal at the Washington Hotel, Restaurant and Culinary School. Or try eating a fresh "lawyer" (a locally caught fish) at KK Fiske Restaurant.
WHAT'S IN A NAME?
French explorers in the 1500s named the strait separating mainland Door County from Washington Island the Porte des Morts, or Door of Death, because of the many shipwrecks in the perilous waters between Lake Michigan and Green Bay.
Happily, only the "door" part of the early name stuck.
SO MUCH MORE ...
We've barely touched on the many things to love about Door County, but we're running out of space. There's the picturesque town of Ephraim, with its fascinating blend of Moravian and Norwegian heritage. The exciting afternoon of parasailing high above Eagle Harbor. The bike ride through Peninsula State Park. Kayaking near Cave Point County Park. Exciting performances at the Peninsula Players Theatre, Birch Creek Music Performance Center and American Folklore Theatre. Strolling along the beach at Whitefish Dunes State Park. The list of memories goes on and on.
Posted in Travel on Sunday, July 25, 2010 12:00 am Updated: 12:03 pm. | Tags: Barbara Gibbs Ostmann, Door County, Wisconsin, Travel,