Getting there • The drive from St. Louis takes about 5 hours. Delta flies nonstop.

Getting around • If you stay downtown and are interested only in the downtown attractions, you won't need a car. Most are within walking distance, and a downtown trolley costs only $1 per ride. Or hop into a horse-drawn carriage. A 30-minute ride is $45. Also, Sun Studios runs a free shuttle bus to and from Graceland and the Rock 'n' Soul Museum. Shuttle info: sunstudio.com or 1-800-441-6249.

Memphis Rock 'n' Soul Museum • 191 Beale Street (the entrance is off Third Street, next to the FedEx Forum). Open 10 a.m.-7 p.m. daily. Admission is $11 for adults, $8 for youths 5-17. Info: memphisrocknsoul.org or 1-901-205-2533.

Graceland • 3717 Elvis Presley Boulevard, about 10 miles south of downtown. Summer hours, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Saturday and 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday. Tickets range from $31 to $70. Discounts are widely available, including on Graceland's own website (click on "Specials & Packages"). Info: elvis.com/graceland or 1-800-238-2000.

Gibson Guitar Factory • 145 Lt. George Lee Avenue. Admission is $10. Tours given on the hour 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Saturday and noon-4 p.m. Sunday. Info: gibson.com or 1-901-544-7998.

Beale Street • bealestreet.com

National Civil Rights Museum • 450 Mulberry Street. Admission is $13, with discounts for seniors, students and children. Audio tours are $2 additional. Open 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday and Wednesday-Saturday, 1-5 p.m. Sunday; closed Tuesdays. Info: civilrightsmuseum.org or 1-901-521-9699.

Memphis Farmers Market • South Front Street at G.E. Patterson Avenue, Historic South Main District, Downtown, next to the Central Station (trolley). 7 a.m.-1 p.m. Saturdays, mid-April through October. Info: memphisfarmersmarket.org.

Germantown Commissary (barbecue) • 2290 Germantown Road. 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday. A hearty lunch for two (more food than we could finish) was $42. Info: commissarybbq.com or 1-901-754-5540.

Alcenia's (soul food) • 317 North Main Street. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday and 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday. Fried chicken, two sides and iced tea were $12. Info: alcenias.com or 1-901-523-0200.

Flight Restaurant and Wine Bar • 39 South Main Street. Open for lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday and for dinner 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday and 5-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Dinner for two (one wine flight per person, and shared appetizer, salad, entree and dessert flights) was $110. Info: flightmemphis.com or 1-901-521-8005.

The Peabody Memphis • 149 Union Avenue. More information: peabodymemphis.com or 1-901-529-4000. (Sunday brunch, $34.50 for adults, is served 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. in the Capriccio Grill; for reservations, call 1-901-529-4199.)

General info • The Memphis Convention and Visitors Bureau has a comprehensive website, memphistravel.com, or call 1-901-543-5333. Another good resource is Moon Handbooks' "Nashville and Memphis," by Susanna Henighan Potter (Avalon Travel, $17.95).