Jefferson City is a capital delight

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Jefferson City is a capital delight
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JEFFERSON CITY • I hadn't been to our state's Capitol building since a school field trip many, many years ago. My memories of that trip are vague, but I recall standing around the seal of Missouri in the rotunda and wondering how much the gold would be worth if it were melted down and standing in the House Lounge and staring at the Thomas Hart Benton mural while some annoying kid kept pushing me from behind.

I figured it was time to replace those memories, and perhaps learn something, with a trip as an adult to the capital of Missouri. My 7-year-old son was in a hockey tournament in Jefferson City one recent weekend, so our family decided to stay an extra night and make a weekend of it.

We found that Jefferson City is full of learning opportunities for young and old. With its anachronistic downtown full of charming shops and shop owners and official buildings full of history, it offers a simple getaway just two hours west of St. Louis.

WHERE TO GO

State Capitol

You really can't go to Jeff City without stopping at Missouri's Capitol building. One-hour tours (which take place at various times) are free and quite educational. You'll get a detailed explanation of the architecture, the sculptures and the Benton mural on the wall of the House Lounge. You'll also get to sit in the balcony overlooking the majestic House of Representatives. One of my favorite spots was the Hall of Famous Missourians, where bronze busts of the state's noteworthy figures made me proud to be from here. My kids, 5 and 7, found the paintings (and their changing perspectives) interesting; but I'll confess they did get bored on the tour. The Capitol building's main floor houses the Missouri State Museum, which features a large Civil War exhibit to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the war. Various displays describe Missouri's unique position in the conflict. The kids enjoyed the interactive area set up with a tent, clothing you can try on and games. (Free, mostateparks.com/park/missouri-state-museum)

Runge Nature Center

Just minutes from downtown is the lovely Runge Nature Center, which features a comprehensive display of Missouri animals, plants and natural history. From the giant windows overlooking the bird-viewing area, we watched four wild turkeys come out of the woods and walk up to the building. We were awed by their size, their wingspan (as they flapped around) and their brazenness. After that, we grabbed some binoculars to watch cardinals and squirrels battle it out for birdseed. I'm sure there is some World Series joke I could make here, but it's not coming to me. Then we toured the exhibits, which included learning opportunities on animal sounds, animal habitats and a large aquarium of river fish. (Free; mdc.mo.gov/regions/central/runge-nature-center)

State Penitentiary

Because I was with my kids I didn't tour the State Pen, but I would have loved to. Opened in 1836 and shuttered in 2004, the prison tour showcases cells that housed famous inmates, including heavyweight champion Sonny Liston, who learned to box during his time there, and James Earl Ray, convicted of assassinating the Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Other stops on the tour are the gas chamber, buried cells, several housing units and the upper yard. Two-hour history tours are $12 per person; four-hour history tours are $35; and ghost tours are $25. Reservations are required. (missouripentours.com)

WHERE TO EAT

Madison's Cafe, 216 Madison Street

This restaurant in the historic downtown area features northern Italian fare at its best. We especially loved the refreshing Mad Crab Stack ($9.75), which features chunks of avocado, pico de gallo, quartered artichoke hearts, chopped red peppers and lump crab meat, served atop basil pesto. The Pasta con Broccoli, as good as any restaurant on the Hill, offered the perfect mix of red and white sauces ($12.75). madisonscafe.com

Central Dairy, 610 Madison Street

Central Dairy was established in Columbia in 1920, with a Jefferson City branch opening in 1932. Most consider it an institution. And for good reason: The quaint other-era shop features dozens of ice cream flavors at an incredible price ($9 for four large scoops). centraldairy.biz

Zesto Drive-In, 501 Broadway and 1730 Jefferson Street

We went to the South, or Jefferson, location of this restaurant, which looks straight out of a "Happy Days" episode. The menu features everything from award-winning barbecue to tuna salad to braunschweiger to chili dogs, but the big draw is the soft-serve ice cream. Although the service was a little scattered, the food was terrific and affordable.

Arris, 117 West High Street

For our team pizza party, the staff couldn't have been more patient. The Greek-inspired food (pizza, salad, gyros) was yummy, and the location (on the hill overlooking the Capitol) can't be beat.

WHERE TO STAY

We stayed at the new Best Western Plus-Capital Inn (1937 Christy Drive), which was less than 3 minutes from downtown and the ice rink. The rooms, which go for $96 a night this time of year, were spacious, with tall ceilings and two queen beds, a sofa, refrigerator, desk and large entry area. My family of four, with hockey gear, was able to spread out quite easily. The hotel offered free Wi-Fi, a hot breakfast, a workout room and an indoor pool, which is really all my kids needed to make this a fun weekend getaway. (bestwestern.com/capitalinn, 1-800-780-7234)

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