There's much more to Kansas City dining than barbecue — not that I would dare neglect that category. Just remember, if you ask for a 'soda," they'll know you're from out of town. Try "pop" or "Coke," as in, "What kind of Coke would you like? 7Up? Root beer?"

At breakfast, though, try the coffee at the Classic Cup Café, which also serves lunch and dinner, along with Sunday brunch. The menu features freshly made takes on classic fare; I splurged calorically on the eggs Benedict, but with fruit instead of home fries; tasty stuff at $7.95. My friend went with a muffin and a bowl of fresh berries. It gave us a good start to the day.

For an outstanding burger, the local Winstead's chain is the best place for steakburgers and thick, delicious malts called Frosties. Its flagship Plaza restaurant no longer has carhops, and the menu has added some options, but otherwise it's much as it was when my father and his classmates hung out there in the early 1940s. The burgers are made of fresh, high-quality lean beef, grilled, ungreasy and satisfying.

They don't add condiments unless you ask; you can get your burger with cheese or without, and in single, double or triple iterations. My older daughter, a culinary heretic, prefers the grilled cheese sandwich.

A Frosty is the perfect accompaniment, with a twirl that rises high above the edge of the glass, for $2.05. The basic burger is $2.25. The waitresses are usually pretty friendly.

BARBECUE AND MORE

There's a world of barbecue here beyond Arthur Bryant's. My father's favorite is Jack Stack Barbecue, a local chain with, conveniently, a restaurant on the Plaza. It's relatively quiet, for a barbecue place, and the meat isn't greasy.

Our waiter was patient in explaining the options. My friend and I shared a BBQ Combo lunch, with a choice of two meats (we went with beef brisket and pork, $12.45) and had plenty. The paternal unit enjoyed his favorite Burnt End lunch, with seared bite-size pieces of meat ($10.25). All was tasty, if messy.

If you're visiting the Nelson-Atkins Museum, consider the Rozzelle Court for a meal. Long an open space, it now has a dramatic covering with skylights, and a look reminiscent of a Renaissance courtyard. You can put together your own lunch with salads, soups, fruit, sandwiches and more; Friday early evening dinners are available a la carte or as a three-course prix fixe dinner for $25. A nice selection of beer and wine is available.

When dining on the Plaza, it's hard to get much finer than Plaza III: The Steakhouse. Just remember that in these parts it's still a Kansas City strip; don't order an East Coast-come-lately "New York strip."

The Plaza III owns and operates its own meat processing facility (and sell its steaks online). We had the Kansas City strip (it seemed appropriate; $39 for the regular cut, $46 for a large one); it was delicious, tender and flavorful, and worth the price. Sides are a la carte: $8 for a 1-pound baked potato or a family-size serving of garlic mashed potatoes, $9 for a salad.

Our waitress was the smart, perceptive Tish, a good conversationalist when that's what the customer wants, and an all-around first-rate server. Tish gave us the table-side spiel on the different cuts, and, later, cards good for a free appetizer or dessert when next we visit. I've tucked mine away carefully.

FRENCH FLAVORS

For a fine French meal, take a drive down scenic Ward Parkway and cross State Line Road into Johnson County. Back when Kansas was dry (the state still hasn't ratified the 21st Amendment, repealing Prohibition), the area's good restaurants were all on the Missouri side. That started to change in 1987, when Kansas became, at least, somewhat damp.

A suburban strip mall may not seem like a natural home for an outstanding meal, but the location helps to keep the prices affordable at Tatsu's French Restaurant, and it's a lovely space inside.

Paris-trained chef Tatsu Arai began with a French pastry and lunch place in 1980. Thirty years later, his eponymous restaurant gets high marks from Zagat's and is a regular on lists of the area's top eating places. It has an excellent wine list, too.

Seafood is a specialty (the Shrimp Meuniére appetizer, at $8.95, is delicious), and the soups are excellent (in cold weather, go for the Potage de Crabe au Sherry at $4.95). The shrimp and scallop dishes are exquisite. This time, though, I had the Veau au Citron (veal loin sautéed with mushrooms in lemon butter sauce, $28.95). Everything is freshly prepared and profoundly satisfying; the presentation is first-rate.

Whatever your choice, remember to order the amazing Grand Marnier soufflé when you order your entrée ($6.50 per person). With crème anglaise and raspberry sauce, it's tender and delicious, and might be worth the trip all by itself.