Late last year, just across South Taylor Avenue from the Brewery & Bierhall, Urban Chestnut opened the U.R.B., or Urban Research Brewery. The U.R.B. gives Urban Chestnut's brewers a place to receive customer feedback on new beers. It also helps fulfill St. Louis' desperate need for more and better pizza-by-the-slice joints.

The U.R.B.'s pizza is New York-style, or close enough. At any rate, I love the crust, which is doughy but not overly chewy and conveys a mild, but definite tang. The bottom is crisp, with faint specks of char here and there.

You'll find the expected options: plain cheese, pepperoni, sausage, all layered over a zesty tomato sauce. Vegetable pizzas might feature mushrooms with actual mushroom texture rather than the jerky-esque slivers served on most delivery pies.

There is usually a special option or two. On a recent visit this was a pie with bacon, pineapples and chiles. Its persistent heat demanded a cold, perfect-for-pizza beer like Urban Chestnut's Zwickel lager or Stammtisch pilsner.

Where The U.R.B., 4501 Manchester Avenue • More Info 314-222-0143; urbanchestnut.com • Menu Pizza, whole pies and by the slice • Hours Lunch and dinner Wednesday-Sunday