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A Greek-style collection of toppings turns these 'pizzas' into a glorious mess

Greek Pita Pizzas. MUST CREDIT: Photo by Tom McCorkle for The Washington Post.

Sometimes I want pizza — wood-fired-oven-baked, charred-crust, Neopolitan-style — and sometimes I want “pizza.” The latter is the type of thing I would make in the broiler after school when I was a kid: French bread, English muffins or flour tortillas topped with sauce and cheese and heated until bubbly.

This recipe is squarely in the latter camp, but it’s a step up. Cookbook author Heather Thomas, who splits her time between Greece and the U.K., uses pita breads as a base for a pile of spinach, soft onions, tomatoes, feta, olives and pine nuts.

I’m sure these would be even better with freshly made pitas from a Mediterranean bakery, but Thomas takes into account the reality that few of her U.S. readers will be able to find such a thing, and instructs you to first pan-fry the rounds in a little oil in a skillet, turning grocery-store bread soft and pliable. When you bake them, they get a little crisp on the edges, while the spinach wilts and the tomatoes soften.

If you’re a purist unable to consider this a pizza,

I have a solution for you: Don’t. Just dollop on a little harissa-spiked yogurt, fold the round over, and eat it like a gloriously messy sandwich. Now, isn’t that better?