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Flash Fried Spinach at Triumph Grill starts with the right spinach
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Flash Fried Spinach at Triumph Grill starts with the right spinach

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Q • My wife and I had the fried spinach at Triumph Grill; it was fabulous. — Mark Wilhelm

A • Quick, what’s a triumph? A grand achievement? A classic British motorcycle? A quirky Midtown restaurant just steps from Grand Center arts and entertainment venues? Quick answer: All of the above.

Consulting partner Brad Beracha calls Triumph Grill an upscale casual dining spot known for scratch cooking and small plates, easy for passing and sharing. The walls and even the ceilings are covered with euro-style motorcycle memorabilia and the 120-motorcycle MotoMuseum shares the entrance. “But this is no biker bar,” Beracha promises. Next door, in fact, is Hotel Ignacio, St. Louis University’s elegant boutique hotel, with a lobby that is home to Triumph’s sister restaurant, BaiKu Sushi Lounge.

Beracha and executive chef Ryan Cooper joined Triumph a year ago and have overhauled the menu to emphasize healthful fare. “People are so aware of what they eat now,” Cooper says. “My job is to make good food taste great.” He’s got some experience with that; think Niche, Brasserie and Araka. Take the burgers, pretty standard fare at any self-respecting grill. At Triumph, burger meat is ground in-house using lower fat-to-meat ratios.

Triumph’s crispy Flash Fried Spinach is one of three top-selling appetizers (tempura asparagus and house-made pretzel bites with a beer cheddar sauce are the others). To stand up to the hot oil, Cooper says, it’s important to choose the right spinach. Baby spinach is too tender. Instead choose mature, sturdy spinach leaves and keep the stems intact, Cooper calls them “nice little handles.”


Triumph Grill

3419 Olive Street

314-446-1801; triumphgrill.com


Special Request is written by Town and Country resident Alanna Kellogg, author of the online recipe column KitchenParade.com and “veggie evangelist” at the food blog about vegetables, A Veggie Venture.

Request a recipe

Would you like to request a recipe from a restaurant that is still open in the St. Louis area? Send your request along with your full name to reciperequest@post-dispatch.com.

Special Request is written by Town and Country resident Alanna Kellogg, author of the online recipe column KitchenParade.com and “veggie evangelist” at the food blog about vegetables, A Veggie Venture.  

Would you like to request a recipe from a restaurant that is still open in the St. Louis area? Send your request along with your full name to reciperequest@post-dispatch.com.

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