One 19 North Tapas and Wine Bar
119 North Kirkwood Road
Q • We went to One 19 North in Kirkwood. They serve tapas and have a nice beer and wine list. Everything was good, but the cheese grits were excellent. It would be a good girls’ night out place. — Chris Clauss, Fenton
A • Time your visit right and you’ll score a place in one of One 19’s coveted window tables, slightly apart from the conviviality of the expansive bar and small tables in the main dining area. “Downtown Kirkwood is a great neighborhood for us,” says chef Christopher Delgado of the two-year-old restaurant’s eponymous address at 119 North Kirkwood Road. “It’s wonderful.”
Delgado says One 19’s food is hard to pigeonhole but that “global small plates” comes close. “I’m inspired by Asia cuisine and French bistros. I have an infatuation with Cajun. I am enamored by New Orleans. The rest comes from Spain and Mexico.”
He was born and raised in Arizona, but his parents are from Mexico. “My cooking comes from my mom and grandmother. This time of year, I remember making maybe 40 dozen tamales; we’d send them to neighbors for gifts.” He headed north to St. Louis to seek restaurant work and found plenty of opportunity, with stints at Del Pietro’s Ristorante D’Italiano (now closed), Jimmy’s on the Park and the St. Louis Club, where the more casual “Back Door” became his kitchen.
Delgado chose smoked Gouda for One 19’s grits because he likes how the smokiness comes through. For cooks looking to re-create the grits at home, he recommends watching the temperature carefully. Turn the heat down gradually once the grits are in, then again once they’re beginning to thicken. “Otherwise, the grits will ‘pop’ and burn you.”
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