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Vin de Set's meatball's let chef explore Vietnamese cooking background
Special Request

Vin de Set's meatball's let chef explore Vietnamese cooking background

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Special Request Vietnamese Meatballs from Vin de Set

The meatballs blend the complex flavors hoisin sauce, ginger, cilantro, and classic Vietnamese fish sauce to produce a flavorful bite, wrapped in puff pastry and served with a simple soy-ginger dipping sauce.

Photo by Pat Eby

St. Louis Food and Dining Facebook page member Lynette Betts originally requested the recipe for crab beignets from Vin de Set. Sadly, the beignets were no longer on the menu, but Chef Kevin Tierney asked if she would perhaps like another recipe from the current menu: Vietnamese meatballs. Her quick reply came back: “Sounds amazing! We love everything we’ve ever had there and I always love Vietnamese dishes. — Lynette Betts”

A • Chef Kevin Tierney’s training in classical French cooking tuned his ear to the delicious foods and flavor combinations of Vietnam, which was once a part of the French colony of Indochina. It is one of his favorite cuisines.

These meatballs blend the complex flavors of hoisin sauce, ginger, cilantro and classic Vietnamese fish sauce to produce a flavorful meatball. At Vin de Set, they’re wrapped in puff pastry and served with a simple soy-ginger dipping sauce that perfectly complements both the meat and the pastry. The dish, which is called báhn patê sô, is a breakfast dish in Vietnam. The meatballs are wrapped either in puff pastry, or in phyllo dough.

The frozen puff pastry dough was far easier to use than the phyllo, but it wasn’t as available at the grocers, so we suggest using either. If cooks don’t want to be bothered to deal with sheets of phyllo or puff pastry, make the smaller size meatballs and place them in pastry shells.

Tierney went to Kendall College for culinary school. “They had a bunch of French chefs when I went to school there from 2000 to 2003. I’ve been cooking classical French ever since. When the chance came to work for Thomas Keller in 2008, I worked at his bistro in Las Vegas, Bouchon, until 2011. While he worked there, he was able explore the French connections to the different regions of Vietnam, which is how this recipe originated,” he says.

“I enjoy working at Vin de Set because I use my training and skills in French cooking every day,” Tierney says. “There’s not many French places in St. Louis, which seems strange given its French history.

“We switch up our menu three times a year, which leaves room for changes in appetizers and in main dishes.”

Tierney will be presenting special Tour de France menus for each Thursday in December. The menus for each dinner will be listed online at the restaurant’s website. The restaurant will hold an a crab boil on Dec. 17 featuring snow crab, shrimp, sausage, boiled potatoes and corn. “For the French influence from Louisiana,” he says. The restaurant traditionally plans a New Year’s Eve special dinner as well. “It’s best to make a reservation for that,” he says.

The rooftop patio will continue to remain open. “We have temporary walls up, Tierney says, “but it’s still half-outdoors, which has ... lots of open space, makes it possible for patrons to enjoy drinks and dinner outside. It’s not as easy for the restaurant to handle curbside pick up. “Since we’re on the third floor, it’s hard for us,” Tierney says. “We’re the only restaurant in the Hamilton Hospitality group that doesn’t do curbside.”

Vin de Set

2017 Chouteau Avenue


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