ST. LOUIS • The demise of a beloved downtown restaurant may have had less to do with the opening of the 122,000-square-foot Ballpark Village entertainment district — and more with underage drinking and years of dipping revenues, according to city records.
Not two months ago, an auction house sold off the last of Harry’s Restaurant & Bar.
Its white tablecloths, foie gras and succession of top chefs had long disappeared. Still, Tim Pieri, co-owner and manager at the Market Street restaurant, blamed its death squarely on the sparkling new complex of sports bars, restaurants and nightclubs across the street from Busch Stadium.
“It was 100 percent Ballpark Village,” Pieri repeated this week. “When you’re doing $18,000 on a Saturday and two weeks later, when they open up, you go down to $3,000 — I’d say that would be a good indicator.”
But Harry’s had bigger problems than Ballpark Village, according to records kept by the city’s excise division, which monitors liquor licenses.
Sales had dropped precipitously. And then, last year, liquor control agents twice caught Harry’s serving minors — including at a 900-student Washington University event.
On Jan. 5, Harry’s co-owner Harry Belli — the restaurant’s namesake — signed a settlement with the excise division to close the restaurant.
Two weeks later, however, Pieri blamed Harry’s collapse on the market.
“Downtown is just a dead area right now, unfortunately,” he told the Post-Dispatch then. “Obviously, the sad part is nobody is talking about it. Iconic places are going out of business, and nobody cares.”
The perception and vitality of downtown St. Louis is of particular importance now. The federal government has just committed to building a $1.7 billion compound — two miles north of downtown — for its National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency. City leaders are banking on the ultra-high-tech facility attracting a workforce of millennials who want an urban lifestyle.
They’re betting that such an investment will revitalize not only the city’s near north side, but its Washington Avenue downtown core, too.
And yet a stubborn spike in crime is frustrating city officials. Bars and restaurants are indeed closing — Joe Buck’s closed in October; the Dubliner in November; Prime 1000 in December; Harry’s and Mike Shannon’s Steaks & Seafood at the end of January.
But few, outside of Pieri, blame Ballpark Village entirely.
“I had 30 years downtown,” said Shannon’s owner, Mike Shannon. “I decided to go out on top. It has nothing to do with Ballpark Village.”
Shannon said the entertainment district’s opening hurt business at his outdoor patio bar but brought traffic to the steakhouse.
And customers quickly returned outdoors, he continued. Now he’s renting the patio to his grandson, Justin VanMatre, who, with business partners, is opening a similar game-day bar outside. VanMatre promises local fare and isn’t worried about Ballpark Village.
Seamus McGowan, who owns several bars on Washington Avenue with his brothers, said Ballpark Village’s first season was hard. “It definitely took a toll, when something that large opens,” he said. But losses varied. Flannery’s Pub, a sports bar, might have lost 20 percent of its business initially, he said. Rosalita’s Cantina, a Mexican restaurant, barely felt a thing.
“Everybody wanted to go check it out, and, over the first few months, it had a dramatic impact,” he said. “We’re back to pre-Ballpark Village levels.”
Downtown is, as a whole, gaining bars and restaurants, not losing them, said Missy Kelley, president and chief executive of the downtown booster and development agency Downtown STL.
Ninety-nine have opened since the end of 2013, Kelley said; 40 have closed. Ballpark Village opened at the end of March 2014, and Kelley said it’s adding business, not taking it away.
Ballpark Village is jointly owned by the Cardinals and the Cordish Cos. Jim Watry, chief operating officer there, said they spent $1.8 million on marketing last year. They met with a national bus tour association.
“We’re working to bring people from a larger geographical region than the city,” he said, “and to make downtown busy on non-game days.”
Places such as Shannon’s and Harry’s were classics, Kelley said. But millennials, she said, “are probably not going to go to a steakhouse.”
“I think it’s really easy to point to something that’s new and successful when a concept that worked for a very long time doesn’t work anymore,” Kelley said. “I’m not sure if anyone went to Harry’s for food anymore.”
‘We hung on’
Harry’s was clearly struggling, according to excise division files. Food and drink sales steadily dropped from $2.3 million in 2008 to $1.3 million in 2014, the most recent year available.
The restaurant added a nightclub and underage nights. Then, late one night last summer, nine liquor control and police officers raided Harry’s.
Pieri, the co-owner, had contracted to host a Washington University event. He expected 200 students; 900 showed up, according to the city report.
The officers quickly busted five minors for underage drinking, the report said. Several had recognizably fake identification, from Oklahoma, Connecticut or New York.
One student presented a Rhode Island license. When agent Adam Shook told him it was fake, the student tried to hand him a business card and said, “My uncle is a police officer,” according to the report. “He said that if I run into any trouble, I should give you this.”
Shook issued the student a summons. Other students, now aware of the liquor control agents, fled the restaurant, the report said. Within 20 minutes, there were 100 customers left.
In January, Harry’s attorney, John Bouhasin, brokered a settlement with the city. The city agreed to reduce a $3,000 fine to $500. The restaurant agreed to close.
Pieri said earlier this week that Harry’s was on its last ropes. “We hung on as long as we could,” he said. “It was time.”
But he insisted:
“You can keep asking the same question. I’m telling you, it was 100 percent Ballpark Village.”
Arcelia's in St. Louis
The original Arcelia's Mexicana Restaurant enjoyed a 20-year run before closing in 2010.
It was replaced by a second version, started by the daughter of the original Arcelia Sanchez. It lasted for about a year, from its 2012 opening to its 2013 closure.
But during its life, customers swore by the authentic recipes that were handwritten in Spanish and carried down from an earlier generation.
Beffa's in St. Louis
With a 113-year history, Beffa's was a popular hangout spot for power brokers and celebrities alike.
The restaurant was famous for being signless, as well as its cafeteria style dining. As Post-Dispatch columnist Bill McClellan wrote: "Eventually, the fact that there was no sign became part of the fabric of the place. You knew about it or you didn't."
It opened as a saloon in 1898, and served its last meal in May 2011.
Big Boy's in Wright City
It was famous for its fried chicken dinners, an unpretentious family place about 60 miles west of St. Louis.
Founded in 1924, the restaurant's motto was "Satisfy that hungry customer." And the fried chicken did the job.
Diners sat at long harvest style tables. Even if there were only two in a party, they would get a piece of the big tables. The restaurant closed in 2005.
Busch's Grove in Ladue
When Busch's Grove restaurant — the original — closed in 2003, it marked the end of a very long era.
The original restaurant had been in business for more than a century, serving luminaries like Theodore Roosevelt and Stan Musial. It was a summertime gathering spot for the St. Louis elite.
With its gazebos and country club atmosphere, it drew names like Harry S Truman, Will Rogers and Charles Lindbergh over its decades.
But it came down to a business decision for the owners. A 2005 reincarnation lasted until 2008. It was followed by a gourmet grocery store; that closed in 2011.
Casa Gallardo chain
The original Casa Gallardo in West Port Plaza opened in 1975. Its owner, Ramon Gallardo had one goal, which was to serve the best Mexican foods he remembered from his childhood.
For more than 30 years, Casa Gallardo served patrons dishes such as tortilla soup, chile rellenos, corn cake, fried ice cream and a host of others.
In 2012, the last of the four St. Louis area restaurants closed. The operators cited tough economic times.
Copia in St. Louis
After a 14-year run in downtown St. Louis, Copia called it quits in January 2019. But it didn't go quietly.
Owner Amer Hawatmeh blamed the closure on parking problems, protests and the city's leadership. He said fewer people were willing to brave downtown.
Dandy Inn in Fairview Heights
After 40 years of serving Fairview Heights folks chicken wings and fish dinners, the Dandy Inn called it quits in early 2017.
The restaurant and bar, complete with outdoor seating and a playground for kids, opened in 1977 and stayed in one family for its run.
Owner Mark Daniels said the business was still strong but he was tired of running it.
The Diamonds Restaurant
The original Diamonds opened in 1919 on Route 66, two miles west of that site. The building's shape provided its name. The original restaurant remained there until its 1969 move.
In the 1930s and 40s, as many as 70 buses a day would stop at the Diamonds.
Dohack's in south St. Louis County, Festus
As a family-run restaurant, Dohack's was in business for more than 80 years. It was famous for its atmosphere, jack salmon and hillbilly bran muffins.
With locations in Festus and South St. Louis County, Dohack's was an area favorite.
But in 1993 the family closed its original restaurant in south St. Louis County and in 2002 changed the Festus location to Cisco's, its more famous and younger cousin.
And then Cisco's morphed into Tanglewood Steakhouse, which is the most current incarnation.
Oh, the cheddar burger.
For nearly 40 years, Dooley's Ltd. stood on North 8th Street in downtown St. Louis dishing up burgers to people who waited through a cafeteria-style line.
Dooley's was a landmark, until 2008 when it fried up its last burger.
There was a new version of Dooley's, called Dooley's Beef & Brewhouse, in Midtown. But it closed in October 2015, and the old Dooley's is gone for good.
Duff's in Central West End
For 41 years, Duff's was considered an essential dining experience in the Central West End.
From fresh fish specials to classics like chicken marsala and creole crab, visitors could also listen to literarary readings.
But after a 41-year run, Duff's closed its doors in 2013.
Fatted Calf in Clayton
When it opened in 1966, the Fatted Calf was the creation of Vince and Tony Bommarito.
Known for its "calfburgers" with a trio of relishes, it changed hands over the years before it closed its doors in 2013.
Fischer's in Belleville
Locals favored the fried chicken at Fischer's, a staple in Belleville for more than 80 years. It also served as a banquet center, where civic groups held meetings and ceremonies.
But it closed for good in 2017, citing financial struggles.
On December 3, 1958, the first Flaming Pit restaurant opened in St. Louis at a site near what is now the Galleria. Other locations soon followed on Watson Road, Manchester, Chippewa, in Ferguson and at Village Square. The restaurant featured all-you-can eat Sunday fried chicken dinners and a special treasure chest for kids who finished their meals.
It was also famous for its bread pudding and hamburgers.
How many cities could claim to be home to a floating McDonald's?
Only one - St. Louis. For more than 20 years starting in March 1980, the fast-food giant made a home on Leonor K. Sullivan Boulevard on a barge designed to resemble a paddle-wheeler.
The Great Flood of 1993 didn't kill it; time did. In November 2000, the restaurant said it was just too expensive and not justified to do the renovations the restaurant needed.
Forum Cafeteria, St. Louis
Many residents could probably relate to taking Christmas shopping trips with the family, looking at window displays and finishing up with lunch at Forum Cafeteria on 7th Street in downtown St. Louis.
At its peak, the Forum Cafeterias had 22 locations around the country, including three in the St. Louis area. The chicken pot pie, roast beef and mashed potatoes were among the most popular comfort foods. At its peak, it would often feed 3,000 diners at lunch and another 3,500 for dinner.
Alas, the downtown cafeteria closed in 1977.
Garavelli's in south St. Louis
For 90 years, Garavelli's on Chippewa was the place to go for a hearty, reasonably priced meal.
But cafeterias faded from favor of diners and business slowed down. In June 2013, owner Basam "Sam" Hawatmeh - the man behind Garavelli's since 1990 - served his last dinner from the stainless steel steam line.
Gian Peppe's on The Hill
Gian Peppe's was a classic Italian restaurant, with classic Italian food to match. It had the family feel most Italian restaurants are known for, and was located in the heart of The Hill.
It opened in 1981 and was a success for 15 years until it closed in the mid-1990s.
The Green Parrot Inn
Halls Ferry Inn in Florissant
When people around Florissant got hungry, they knew they could find pizza, wings and a family atmosphere at the Halls Ferry Inn.
The restaurant was a staple off Highway 67 for about 40 years before it closed in 2011.
Jacks or Better, multiple locations
A restaurant that allowed - no, even encouraged - you to throw peanut shells on the floor?
That concept along with burgers, beer and steaks proved popular for years to St. Louisans.
St. Louisans had their pick of burgers, fishbowls of beer and peanut shells on the floor at Jacks or Better. It was a popular date night spot for couples.
The chain had locations in St. Louis, Kansas City and New Orleans before they faded away in the 1980s.
Kemoll's in downtown St. Louis
After more than 90 years in the city, fine-dining restaurant Kemoll's left downtown in January 2019 to reopen - as Kemoll's Chop House - in Maryland House.
Owner Mark Cusumano says it was a difficult decision to leave the city generally and the Metropolitan Square building specifically. But the size - two floors covering 20,000 square feet - had become an issue. The restaurant opened in 1927 on North Grand Boulevard and moved to the Met Square building in 190.
The top dishes at the restaurant when it decided to pull the downtown plug? Steaks, chops and other dishes from the grill.
King Louie's in St. Louis
For 13 years, fans of the restaurant tucked into a semi-difficult to find location at 3800 Chouteau filled it to get the pork chop, the seafood sausage or other fresh and local food - before it was all the trend.
From the time it opened in December 1994, it drew raves from its customers for the mood and food. In 2003, it made the Post-Dispatch's readers' list of favorite restaurants and it was recognized for its wine list in 2000. When its outdoor patio opened, it won raves.
But the restaurant closed in 2007.
Kopperman's Deli was a fixture in the Central West End before closing in July 2016.
After 34 years, an illness forced the owners to shut it down. The deli also was a specialty grocery store.
Lemmons in south St. Louis
Lemmons was a popular restaurant, bar and live music venue for 12 years. It was once the go-to venue for live St. Louis musical talent.
The bar was known for its pizza and bar atmosphere. It closed in 2014, stung by competition.
Lettuce Leaf in Clayton
Some St. Louisans say that the Lettuce Leaf was a brilliant idea, but just ahead of its time.
Founded in 1976 in Clayton, the Lettuce Leaf was the creation of SLU professor William Saigh and his wife, Christine.
Salads as entrees was a new idea to St. Louis, but the business worked and they opened three more St. Louis area stores and one in Kansas City. In 1991, the Saighs sold the business to some employees.
The Libertine in Clayton
For five years, The Libertine offered upscale comfort food in Clayton.
But in January 2018, its owners decided to focus their efforts on a brand-new concept. The decision ended the restaurant that was ranked in the top 100 in St. Louis in both 2016 and 2017 by restaurant critic Ian Froeb.
Miss Hullings in St. Louis
From the first restaurant at 725 Olive Street in 1929 to the other four that opened over the years, Miss Hullings restaurants were much loved by St. Louisans.
The cafeteria at the corner of 11th and Locust streets was in business for nearly 60 years before it closed in 1993.
What began as a successful bakery morphed into the restaurants where generations of St. Louisans would get their homestyle food at reasonable prices, and usually splurge on cakes and pies for dessert.
Noah's Ark in St. Charles
It opened in 1968 and while people may not remember the menu, they remember what it looked like.
The restaurant just off Interstate 70 resembled an ark, complete with giant fiberglass animals looming over it.
It had been called Captain Tony's when it closed in 1995, but it's the Noah's Ark name that St. Louisans hold in their memory.
Alas, the ark was demolished in 2007, but it did get a send-off party of sorts.
Ponticello's in Spanish Lake
The Spanish Lake Italian restaurant closed its doors in 2013, after 60 years in operation.
The restaurant was known for its pizza, fried chicken, and family feel.
The Parkmoor in Clayton
Before the Parkmoor closed for good in 1999, regulars and some newcomers descended on the Clayton Road and Big Bend Boulevard landmark one last time.
They dined on Kingburgers and onion rings and dreamed of the day the restaurant might be rejuvenated, as owner Lou Ellen McGinley talked about.
Alas, it didn't happen. And now, the site of the old Parkmoor is just another Walgreens.
Pelican's in south St. Louis
The old Pelican's Restaurant was housed in a building on South Grand that dated back to 1895, and served as a home for restaurants and bars for decades.
But it was perhaps best known after the Pelican family bought the property in 1945 and made it well-known for its turtle soup.
And then there was the sign - a 20-foot big blue sign with a yellow and white pelican in neon lights.
The restaurant changed hands many times after the Pelican family sold it in the 1970s, and the building morphed into an office building in 1987.
Pope's Cafeteria, multiple locations
For years, St. Louisans flocked to Pope's Cafeteria for its family atmosphere, and convenient locations.
In its prime, Pope's had 29 locations, feeding the St. Louis areas in places such as factories, malls and storefronts.
In 1980, four employees were killed in the West County Mall location, and the last of the Pope's locations in Florissant closed in 1989.
Rossino's in Central West End
It was an underground Italian restaurant that opened back in the 1940s.
But it closed in 2006, taking decades of meals and memories with it.
Romine's in St. Louis
In business for 75 years, customers flocked to Romine's, famous for its fried chicken. When the restaurant closed in 2006, the owners cited rising crime in the area in the 9000 block of Riverview Drive and declining dinner sales.
But the fried chicken lived on - it got added to the menu at the Malone's Grill and Pub in St. Peters.
Wainwrights in Belleville
Hamburgers and french fries, bagged up in wax paper and stuffed into paper bags to feed the hungry customers of Belleville.
The owners were well-known for locking the entrance when the restaurant was full, only opening the doors again after some people had left.
The hours were sporadic, but the burgers were consistent — fresh, hot and tasty. Customers getting to-go orders knew not to tarry on the way home, as the waxed paper wrappers were not the best to keep the food hot.
But no one really complained. The restaurant closed sometime in the late 1970s — we think. Shenanigan's in Belleville reportedly has a burger in the Wainwright mold.