The Mangia Bene is still the signature dish at Smokee Mo's BBQ, even if the workers didn't cry out, "Mangia Bene!" when I ordered it on my most recent visit, as they did when I wrote about it in 2016. Thick garlic-cheese bread — garlic-Provel bread, to be precise — sandwiches slices of beef brisket with the restaurant's horseradish-spiked white-barbecue sauce. The Mangia Bene's over-the-top fatty richness demands to be split over a couple of meals. I usually ignore the demands.
Where Smokee Mo's BBQ, 606 Jeffco Boulevard, Arnold • More info 636-296-2111; smokeemosstlouisbbq.com • Hours Lunch and dinner (or until sold out) daily